Ever noticed how every Luca Guadagnino film is a masterclass in style? From Tilda Swinton’s elegant wardrobes to Timothée Chalamet’s iconic 80s looks and Zendaya’s tennis chic, his movies are a feast for fashion lovers. But which cinematic ensemble truly stole your heart?
Luca Guadagnino has cultivated a unique cinematic signature, identifiable not just by his compelling narratives but by an almost palpable sensory experience that permeates his work. His films consistently offer a sun-kissed, dreamlike quality, whether set amidst the opulent villas of Italy or the competitive tennis courts of America, making them a feast for the eyes and a profound exploration of human emotion. This distinctive approach ensures that every frame contributes to an immersive journey for the audience.
A cornerstone of Guadagnino’s visual storytelling lies in the meticulous and often ravishing costume design that elevates his characters and settings. Far from being mere sartorial choices, the wardrobes in his Luca Guadagnino films become integral to the narrative, reflecting character arcs, social standing, and emotional states, ultimately contributing significantly to the overall cinematic style. These exquisite ensembles, frequently designed by acclaimed talents, often steal the scene and leave an indelible mark on the viewer.
Take, for instance, the refined elegance showcased in “I Am Love,” where Tilda Swinton’s character, Emma, embodies the quintessential Guadagnino heroine. Dressed by Raf Simons, then at Jil Sander, her impeccable array of prim headbands, pearls, sumptuous cocktail dresses, and perfectly-cut coats constructs a world of rarefied Milanese luxury and emotional constraint. Costume designer Antonella Cannarozzi’s masterful work earned an Oscar nomination, underscoring the film’s profound impact on film fashion.
Swinton’s chameleon-like ability to inhabit contrasting aesthetics is further demonstrated in “A Bigger Splash.” Here, as a tousled-haired rock star on an Italian island, her wardrobe shifts to undone shirting, floaty skirts, and Dior jumpsuits, a testament to Raf Simons’s design genius. Juxtaposed against her is Dakota Johnson’s rebellious teenager, sporting beat-up leather jackets and printed bikinis, creating a dynamic visual interplay that defines the film’s vibrant and chaotic energy. This masterful contrast highlights the nuanced movie wardrobes that become characters in themselves.
The vibrant, rose-tinted memory of the exuberant ’80s in “Call Me by Your Name” is immortalized through its effortless costume design. Timothée Chalamet’s portrayal of Elio, the restless protagonist, is inextricably linked to his iconic Lacoste polos, gold chain necklaces, Ray-Bans, and Talking Heads T-shirts. Giulia Piersanti, who also worked with the director, curated an aesthetic that perfectly captured the era’s freewheeling spirit, cementing Elio’s status as a retro menswear icon and making the film a touchstone for summer style.
More recently, Guadagnino’s collaboration with Jonathan Anderson for “Challengers” ignited a pop culture sensation, particularly for its innovative fusion of sportswear and high fashion. Zendaya, Josh O’Connor, and Mike Faist were outfitted in meticulously crafted sports gear and preppy shirting, with the famous “I Tashi” t-shirt becoming instant merchandise. The film’s fashion-obsessed lens lingers on protagonist Tashi Duncan’s cinched-in shirt dresses, Chanel espadrilles, and Cartier jewellery, showcasing how clothing dictates power and ambition within the intense world of professional tennis.
Anderson’s creative vision extends to Guadagnino’s upcoming film, “Queer,” set to premiere at the Venice Film Festival. This sultry, 1950s Mexico City-set fever dream stars Daniel Craig and Drew Starkey, who navigate dive bars and motels in linen suits, translucent shirts, and vintage knits. The meticulously researched mid-century wardrobe, while historically accurate, possesses a timeless quality, ensuring that the film’s aesthetic feels both authentic to its era and remarkably contemporary.
From the understated luxury of “I Am Love” to the modern athletic chic of “Challengers,” Luca Guadagnino consistently uses fashion in his films not just as adornment but as a powerful narrative tool. His keen eye for aesthetics, combined with the talents of leading costume designers, ensures that each of his works is not merely a story watched but an experience felt, making him a true auteur of visually compelling cinema.
